Suspension tips

Put the bike on the hill, grab the rear screen and lift. You will now feel a “gap” called the hang.

The clearance is measured as follows:
Place the bike on a pallet and measure with a ruler or similar from the wheel axle straight up to the edge of the fender. You now get a measurement that we call A (eg 620 mm). Set the bike down on the hill with the handlebars straight ahead. Now rock the bike nimbly at the back of the saddle (it should stop on its own). With the bike in this position, measure again from the wheel axle up to the fender edge. You now get a new measurement that we call B (eg 590 mm). Note you must have a full tank and remember not to lift the bike by the rear fender when you take it off the stand.

Dimensions A = 620 mm
Dimensions B = – 590 mm
Middle hang becomes = 30 mm
For example, you ride cross/enduro and your suspension should be 30–40 mm.

Adjusting of the pendant:
Note! Adjustment of the suspension must be done when the shock absorber is cold, a warm shock absorber reduces the suspension by approx. 8-14mm, for example when you have just ridden.

Reduce the pendant = Screw clockwise
Increase the pendant = Screw counterclockwise

The overhang:
Motocross 65 25-35 mm.
Motocross 80 – 85cc: 30-35 mm.
Motocross 125-250cc: 35-40 mm.
Motocross 4-stroke: 35-42 mm.
Enduro with linkage 35-40mm
Enduro PDS 38-40mm

Seat height:
How much the bike drops in the back when you are sitting with full equipment and full tank ! (don’t swing). Normal seat height 100-110mm. If it drops less than 100mm = too hard spring. Lowers it over 110mm. = too soft spring, note that a different measurement applies to newer 85cc.

Seat height 85cc (Japanese models and older ktm) 95-100mm.
85cc ktm/husky/gasgas 2018-> 120mm
Motocross 125-450cc 100-105mm
Enduro with linkage 100-105mm
Enduro PDS 108-110mm

Suspension problems :
Note! When adjusting the compression or rebound, always adjust with a maximum of 2 clicks at a time.

The compression:
For tighter compression screw inwards.
For softer compression screw outwards.

The return:
For slower, more sluggish return screw inwards.
For faster, easier return screw outwards.

The High Speed ​​Compression Shock Absorber:
This nut people are terrified to touch? But the thing is, many people don’t really know what it does. Yes….! If you turn it out half a turn, the shock will be softer, but it will also work further down the stroke. If you screw it in half a turn it will be harder and bumpier but also work higher up the stroke. You can say that you can fine-tune the stroke of the damper itself with the high speed. For adjustment is usually between 1/4 – 1/2 turn from standard. Mostly out 1/4 turn = smoother.

The rear wheel kicks up when braking and when the throttle is turned off, as well as in small potholes. Generally poor attachment and can kick sideways when the gas is applied, the bike feels uneasy.

The rear wheel kicks unpredictably in different directions in all types of bars. Poor attachment and generally anxious. The front fork will feel hard because it descends more in the rear.

Over small bumps, sharp edges = too hard compression. Unscrew the compression 2 clicks at a time = softer. Kicks over medium and larger posts, depends on the shock absorber
compressed too deep in the post due to too quick, easy return. Screw in the return 2 clicks at a time = slower return.

Too hard spring or too hard compression. Or too slow rebound that holds the bike down on hard, level surfaces, but becomes too slow on hard bumps and hard posts. Screw it out
the compression or the return with 2 clicks in both of these cases.

Normally caused by too hard compression or too slow return. Can also be due to too hard springs. The symptoms will include that you lose your grip in the curves and it is generally felt
Unstable forward.

Too hard springs or too much oil (reduce the oil level by 10mm), or dirt in the fork. Common. Need a service. Way too much sag in the back which means that there is too little “pressure” on the fork.

Too soft springs, exhausted springs, too little oil (increase oil level 10mm). Too little sag in the rear, which means that the weight is placed more on the front fork.

If you have removed the front wheel, remember to tighten the front axle first before tightening the guards. Spin the wheel quickly and cross brake so that it slams into the fork. Do this 3-4 times so that the wheel is centered in relation to the fork. Now tighten the grips. If you have spawned recently, one of the crowns may have been hit.

If you suspect this, you can check with a ruler that the crowns line up exactly with each other.

The front end is too low in relation to the rear. Lower the fork in the fork crowns by 2-4mm, this does not help, check that you have the correct springs front and rear, otherwise contact us for support.

The front end is too high in relation to the rear. “raise” the forks in the fork crown by 2-4mm this does not help check that you have the right springs front and back otherwise contact us for support.

The damping capacity of fork legs and shock absorbers deteriorates significantly over time and is caused by the oil’s viscosity breaking down quickly, as well as by dirt and general wear and tear. The fork is the weak point that easily absorbs sand and mud. Therefore requires more frequent service intervals than the shock absorber.

Service overhaul fork: 20-25 hours
Service overhaul shock absorbers: 20-25 hours

Unjustified oil leakage in fork legs is a common phenomenon. The oil leak is because you got dirt between the stuffing box and the chrome leg. Take a seal doctor and carefully stick it up between the stuffing box and the chrome leg. Carefully pull it around the leg so you don’t damage the stuffing box. To prevent dirt and sand from entering the fork, make a habit of cleaning the scraper rings after each ride. Lubricate the legs with fork oil/WD40 If the surface you ride on is dry and hard, clean every other time.

The bolts in the fork crown must always be torqued when you reassemble your frame fork. The number of NM is usually on the fork crown, otherwise it is written in your manual. If you have bought a new motorcycle, all bolts must be torqued after approximately 10 hours of riding. For a more stable motorcycle, the steering bearing should be tightened so that you get a little “resistance”

IMPORTANT: You should always aim to get the rear wheel as far back in the swing as possible. Be careful about this when you change the chain so that the wheel axle absolutely does not come further forward than in the “middle” of the swing. Horse from the middle and back.

NOTE! The above tips and settings assume that you have the right springs for your weight and the normal order of other moving parts such as linkage, steering bearings, etc.

If you need further information or help with your suspension, contact us directly and we will help you.

Questions about your suspension?

Dennis Eriksson
Suspension Technician